Alloy – a mixture of two or more metals
Baguette - Gemstone (typically a diamond) cut in the shape of a narrow rectangle
Bail - A hoop-like attachment for a pendant that allows it to be worn on a chain or necklace. Some newer pendants are supplied with a removable bail so that it can be added to and removed from thick chains and omegas.
Bangle - Non-flexible bracelet
Baroque - Irregular shaped stone or pearl
Base Metals - Any non-precious metal alloy combinations
Basket Set – Probably the most common type of setting for gemstones. It allows light in from the bottom for more sparkle. A Basket setting usually has four prongs, connected by a thin metal wire, but can have six . Earrings, pendants and rings may all use basket settings.
Bezel – Low gemstone setting where a wall of metal surrounds the stone. A bezel can also describe the rim of metal surrounding a watch dial (or face).
Brilliant Cut - A style of gem cutting (most often used for diamonds) consisting of 58 facets.
Briolette - A teardrop shaped stone, faceted on all sides with triangular and/or rectangular facets; also known as a “drop cut.”
Brushed Finish – (also called satin finish) A textured metal surface in which fine lines create a matte, rather than high polish look.
Cabochon – (cab-uh-shon) An unfaceted stone with flat back and domed surface. Can be round, square, oval or free form shapes. Also called a “cab.” One of the oldest and simplest forms of stone cutting.
Calibrated Stone - One that has been cut exactly to a standard size. Jewelers often purchase calibrated stones when the design requires two or more stones of the same exact size or when a design will be duplicated many times as in manufactured jewelry.
Cameo - Traditionally shell or stone (but can be other materials) with a design carved in relief, on a contrasting colored background. The most recognized are of florals and Victorian women. However, carvings of mythological gods and goddesses, scenes and military heroes were popular as far back as Green and Roman times.
Carat - Spelled with a “c” is a measure of weight used for gemstones. One carat (abbreviated ct) is equal to 1/5 of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are measured to the nearest hundredth of a carat; also called a point. Thus a .10 carat stone can be called either 10 points, or 1/10 of a carat. The relationship of weight and size is different for each family of stones. A ruby, for example, is heavier than diamond. So a 1 carat ruby is smaller in physical size than a 1 carat diamond.
Clasp/Catch – The fastening device of a necklace or bracelet. Common types include: spring ring, barrel, box, hidden box, hinged box, lobster claw, figure 8 or toggle.
Culet – The very bottom point of a faceted gemstone (typically referenced in diamonds). The tip itself may or may not be a facet.
Cut - Refers to the number of facets in a finished gemstone (often referenced in diamonds) and how those facets are proportioned. The precision and expertise of the cut will affect the stone’s sparkle and interior fire.
Channel Setting – Arrangement of gemstones in a line that is inlaid into the ring’s band with a small metal lip on each edge to keep the stones in place. There are no individual prongs around each stone.
Enamel - Powdered colored glass which has been fused to a surface by means of high heat.
Engraving – A technique in which metal is cut or scraped away to form a design (or lettering). It can be done by either hand or machine.
Etching – A decorative technique where part of a metal surface is removed by acid to create a design, or add dimension, to a piece of jewelry.
Earring Posts/Backs – The post is the long, thin portion that connects to the decorative part of the earring and inserts through the hole of a pierced ear. The back is the fastener that connects to the post once it is through the pierced ear, holding it securely in place. Types include:Friction, Threaded, La Pousette, Lever Backs, Kidney Wire, U Catch, Hoop Wire, Monster Backs, Omega Backs, French Screw.
Facets – Smooth, polished planes that make up a gemstone’s surface. They allow it to sparkle and reflect light. In a round brilliant diamond, there are 58 facets. The fewer facets a stone has, the less reflection and brilliance it will exhibit.
Fancies/Fancy Shapes – Often referring to the cut and or shape of a diamond. Asscher, Cushion, Emerald, Heart, Marquis, Oval, Pear, Princess and Radiant are all examples of fancies. For more see also “Diamond Cuts/Shapes.”
Fantasy Cuts - By definition, they are any shape, either symmetrical or asymmetrical, other than the conventional cuts (round, oval, pear, marquise, emerald). Fantasy cut gemstones are one of the most innovative concepts in contemporary jewelry design and showcase free-form designs with everything from distinctive saw tooth like grooves on the edges to layered, multi-tiered facets.
Some of the more popular fantasy cuts include: onion, half-moon, kite, pentagon, hexagon, chevron, fan and lozenge. These shapes reflect the revival of Art Deco influences in contemporary jewelry designs and allow gemstone cutters to follow the best attributes of the rough stone while eliminating or avoiding cleavage planes, internal flaws, and inclusions.
Findings - the small parts and pieces used in the manufacture and assembly of jewelry. There are many small, standardized parts that are used so often that it’s often not economical to make them every time they are needed.
Genuine Gemstone - A genuine gemstone is the real thing, created by nature. It can be genuine without necessarily being considered a “natural gemstone” anymore if it was treated in some way to enhance its appearance. However, something created by man (whether in a lab or otherwise) is not considered genuine. In the case of a “lab created” or “synthetic” gemstone, all of the natural elements are present, but the natural process has been replicated by man.
Gold – A malleable precious metal that does not oxidize or tarnish as most other metals do. It is typically alloyed with other metals like silver, copper or nickel to make it harder. The ratio of gold to other metals is what denotes the karat content. White, rose and green are common types of gold used in jewelry.
Green Gold – A gold alloy containing high concentrations of silver.
Gypsy Set – A form of gemstone setting where the stone is sunken into the surrounding metal, leaving the top of the stone almost level with the metal surface surrounding it.
Hallmark – A stamp on precious metals, by assay offices, after the metal has been tested and determined to contain the proper amount of precious metals required by law.
Hardness – As measured for minerals, the “Mohs Scale of Hardness” value indicates the materials resistance to scratching on a comparative scale (1-very soft to 10-very hard). The Mohs scale of mineral hardness was devised by the German mineralogist Frederich Mohs in 1812:
| Hardness | Mineral | Hardness | Common Objects | |
| 1 | Talc | |||
| 2 | Gypsum | 2.5 | Fingernail | |
| 3 | Calcite | 2.5-3 | Gold, Silver | |
| 4 | Fluorite | 3 | Copper penny | |
| 5 | Apatite | 5.5 | Knife blade | |
| 6 | Feldspar | 5.5 | Glass | |
| 7 | Quartz | 6.5 | Hardened steel file | |
| 8 | Topaz | |||
| 9 | Corundum | |||
| 10 | Diamond |
Illusion Setting - A gemstone setting in which the stone is placed in a mirror like plate of reflective and brightly burnished metal. The metal edges are shaped so that, when bent around the stone, they create the illusion of being a part of the stone. It is a setting designed mainly for a small diamond ring to enhance its apparent size.
Inclusion - In gemstones, this is any solid, liquid, or gaseous foreign body enclosed in the mineral or rock. The price and value of gemstones can vary greatly based on the type of inclusions and clarity of the stone. However, in amber, inclusions can be complete bodies of prehistoric bugs or foliage.
Invisible Setting – A gemstone setting style in which grooves in each stone’s girdle slip into a metal framework below the surface, so stones sit side-by-side. It creates the appearance of a solid surface of gems without any metal showing from the top.
Jump Ring - A small ring used to link elements of jewelry.
Karat - Karat with a “k” is a measure of the purity of a gold alloy. The higher the karat value, the higher the purity of the metal (or gold content of the alloy).
Martini Setting – Mostly used in earrings (particularly diamond studs) a martini setting is similar to a basket, but with only 3 prongs so it is more triangular and showcases like the top of a martini glass.
Matte Finish - Jewelry which has a non-reflective metal surface, as opposed to highly polished. The surface will appear frosted, uniformly scratched or brushed and is created using various techniques including a chemical process, sand blasting, tumble polishing or created by hand using abrasives.
Millegrain - A style of decoration with a fine, bead-like effect in metal; popular in the Edwardian and Belle Époque periods and still used today.
Nacre - The smooth, iridescent substance formed around a grain of sand or other foreign matter in the shells of certain mollusks. Over time, these layers build up to form a pearl.
Natural gemstones – Those delivered to us courtesy of nature, with no interference from humans. Typically, they are formed through a combination of natural forces such as chemical reaction, heat, pressure, gravity, natural mineral migration, time, space and such similar factors. By the time they appear in our jewelry they’ve been cut or polished, but they’ve not been altered in other ways.
However, if naturally perfect stones were the only ones available, most of us couldn’t afford them. Enhancements allow jewelry manufacturers to improve the look of gemstones so they are more affordable and attractive to consumers. They are still “genuine” without necessarily being “natural.”
Pave’ - (pah-VAY) A gem setting technique in which the stones are set low and very close together, so that the surface appears to be paved with gemstones. It may be used with almost any stone, but most commonly seen with diamonds.
Pennyweight – (abbreviated dwt) A measurement used to weigh precious metals. It is equal to 24 grains. There are 20 pennyweights in a Troy ounce.
Prong Setting - A prong setting is one of the most commonly used gemstone settings. It is when a gem is inserted into three or more metal prongs that form a basket-like base. The ends of the prongs are bent over and shaped so that they rest against the gem to hold it snugly in place. The visible prong ends are often rounded, but they can be shaped into ovals, points, V-shapes, left flat or even formed into decorative shapes.
Rhodium Plating - White gold, without rhodium plating, is more of a light grey color than white. Plating does wear off, however, and for this reason, rhodium plating is only recommended for white gold, platinum, palladium and metals that are a whiter hue to begin with. Rhodium plating yellow gold is usually successful for a very brief period of wear, if at all. Soon the yellow gold starts coming through the white and it’s not attractive.
How long rhodium plating lasts depends on many factors such as your body chemistry, medications, how often the jewelry is worn, what the jewelry comes in contact with during wear, etc. More importantly (and that which can be controlled) is the quality of the plating; it’s a huge factor. Is the rhodium being used pure? Has it been contaminated? How thick of a coating has been applied?
There are many factors to quality rhodium plating. So, as with anything else, beware of where you take your jewelry to be rhodium plated. The other large factor is what the underlying white gold color quality is underneath the plating. If it’s a nice bright white, there will be nothing too obvious as the plating begins to wear a bit. If the color is slightly yellowish to begin with, more frequent plating will be necessary.
Unfortunately, many discount jewelry stores save money on inventory by rhodium plating their old yellow gold jewelry to make it look like the more popular white gold. Yes, it may in fact be 10K, 14K or whatever carat gold they are claiming, but the contrast as the yellow gold underneath starts to wear is terrible and will happen very quickly. We can attempt to rhodium plate yellow gold in instances such as these, but cannot guarantee the work.
Shank - Hoop part of a ring that rests underneath the finger.
Shape – Often confused with cut, the shape is the overall form outline of a gemstone. Different shapes have different numbers of facets, and each one has particular proportions and dimensions that will give it the best overall appearance. See “Diamond Cuts/Shapes” for more.
Slide - A decorative fastener, which slides onto a chain, or some type of metal, wire, fabric, leather to create a necklace/pendant effect.
Soldering - A method of securing metals together by melting them, and usually adding metal alloys, at a joining point.
Sterling Silver - Silver with a fineness of 925 parts per thousand or 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. Copper is added to the alloy to increase the silver’s hardness.
Tarnish - Discoloration of metal due to oxidation or corrosion. Sterling silver is very susceptible to tarnishing but can be cleaned with products or cloths designed for removing tarnish.
Tiffany Setting – Introduced by Tiffany & Co in 1886, this is a high pronged setting most commonly used for diamond solitaires.
Trapeze Cut - A gemstone cut into an equilateral triangle with a flat top
Troy Weight – A method of measuring gold, silver and gemstones believed to have originated in Cairo during the crusades. The name comes from Troyes, France where it was first used. In Troy weight, the pound = 12 ounces, the ounce = 20 pennyweights and the pennyweight – 24 grains.
Vermeil – (ver-may) Silver with gold plating. Gold-plating of base metals such as brass or bronze are sometimes erroneously referred to as vermeil. When base metals are plated with thin layers of gold, they should be referred to as gold plated, not vermeil.
