The most commonly asked questions
Part I
Determining genuine gold, silver or platinum
Part II
Purity and value of metals
Part III
White gold vs platinum
Part IV
Alternative Metals
PART I
GENUINE VS FAKE
Simple ways to tell that it is NOT gold or silver:
- Inspect for discoloration. If an item is plated, high-friction areas (such as clasps and shanks) will show where the plating is beginning to rub off. Discoloration proves that the gold is not solid, the therefore, something we cannot purchase.However, the absence of discoloration doesn’t necessarily prove that the gold is real.
- Hold it up to a magnet.Gold is not magnetic, but many base metals are.If it sticks to, or pulls toward the magnet, it’s fake. If it doesn’t react to the magnet, however, it could still be fake -just made from a non-magnetic material.
- Look for markings.If it is stamped “A1” or has the word “plate” or some variation like “quadruple plate” then it is plated.“EP” stands for electroplate and is another tale tell sign it is plated.We cannot purchase items that are plated with precious metal; they must be solid.
Some ways to determine that it IS gold, silver or platinum:
You might check for an inscription somewhere on the piece that tells you what it is.However, keep in mind that sometimes these inscriptions have worn with age, been removed during a repair process (such as ring sizing) or covered with tarnish (as happens with dirty silver). If you are uncertain about what you have, or cannot see a stamp, we will test it for you.Many times these stamps are very tiny and require a magnifying glass to be seen.They can also be in very indiscrete places (like the inside of a jump ring or clasp on a necklace).Also note that gold markings can be on a white-colored piece of jewelry; this is white gold.
Conversely, please also know that sometimes just because the piece is stamped, does NOT mean it is genuine solid precious metal.It could mean that only a small portion of the jewelry is a genuine; such as a clasp or tag.Unfortunately, stamps are also sometimes placed on jewelry for the deceptive purpose to sell it as something it is not.
Any piece in question can and will be tested.
Some common markings include:
- 925 ,SS Sterling silver
- 800 800 Grade Silver
- 850 85% Platinum
- 900, PLAT, PL 90% Platinum
- 950 Pure Platinum
- 375 9K or 9kt Gold
- 585 14K or 14kt Gold
- 750 18K or 18kt Gold
- 916 22K or 22kt Gold
PART II
PURITY & VALUE OF METALS
The karat weight (which is often stamped on the piece) determines the purity, and hence the value, of the gold.For example, a gold chain stamped with “375″ would be 37.5% precious metal, or 9K. That will not be as valuable as 14K.The higher the numerical value, the higher the gold content, and thus the more valuable the metal.
To simplify, the content of gold as it pertains to purity…
- 18kt gold is 18/24ths gold and 6/24ths other metals
- 14kt gold is 14/24ths gold and 10/24ths other metals
- 10kt gold is 10/24ths gold and 14/24ths other metals
The highest gold content is 24K; totally pure.However, jewelry is not often made out of 24kt gold because it is too soft.So, other metals are introduced to create a gold alloy that is more conducive to jewelry.
Other metals typically used in gold alloys:
- Yellow Gold = copper and/or zinc combinations
- Rose Gold = higher concentrations of copper
- White Gold = palladium, manganese, silver and/or nickel
Rhodium is also a precious metal used in jewelry.It is part of the platinum family of metals, but generally not used to make solid jewelry because it is brittle and its cost very volatile (sometimes 5 times as costly as gold, and sometimes 25 times).Because it is glittery, sparkling bright white and offers a mirror-type effect that makes diamonds pop, rhodium is frequently used as plating.White gold, without rhodium plating is more of a light grey color than white.However, plating does wear off and for this reason, rhodium plating is only recommended for white gold, platinum, palladium and metals that are of a whiter hue to begin with.Rhodium plating yellow gold, for instance, is usually successful for a very brief period of wear.Soon the yellow gold starts coming through the white and it’s not attractive.Unfortunately, many discount jewelry stores save money on inventory by rhodium plating their old yellow gold jewelry to make it look like the more popular white gold. Yes, it may in fact be 10K, 14K or whatever carat gold they are claiming, but the contrast as the yellow gold underneath starts to wear is terrible and will happen very quickly.
PART III
White Gold vs Platinum
Which is heavier?Platinum is nearly twice as heavy as gold.
Which tarnishes?Gold “tarnishes” or yellows over time because gold is yellow; it contains other metals (such as nickel or platinum) to make it white.Platinum IS a white metal by nature so it will always retain its white color.Although it will dull over time, it will not yellow.
Which is easiest to maintain?White gold is easier to clean but will most likely need rhodium plated more often than platinum to keep a “like new” appearance.Both can be polished without fear of thinning or excessive wear as long as they are of high quality.Gold is more scratch resistant.Repairs and soldering are cheaper on white gold because the metal is cheaper.Also gold melts at a lower temperature, so it takes less labor time to work on gold than platinum.However, platinum requires fewer retips, reshanks, clasps, etc than white gold because it is more durable.These are costly repairs and the more frequently they need done, the more they compromise the integrity of the piece.
Which provides a better mount?Platinum prongs are more secure and in no way will damage the stone.
Which is more hypoallergenic?Platinum, because it is more pure. Platinum jewelry is up to 95% platinum. Gold jewelry is commonly 58% or 75% gold.
Which is more expensive?Platinum is initially.However, it typically requires much less maintenance in terms of prongs, shanks, clasps, etc.These types of repairs can be costly.So, over the course of time, it’s hard to say which is more cost efficient as repairs and maintenance vary greatly depending on the person wearing it.Gold will also require more frequent rhodium plating.
Can you wear them together?Platinum will wear through gold.For instance, if you have a platinum solitaire mounting and a white gold wedding band, the platinum will damage your band over time.Similarly if you have a white gold chain running through a platinum bezel, the bezel will chew, through the chain as it moves during regular wear.It is highly recommended to go with all gold or all platinum when wearing pieces that will be physically touching one other.Along the same lines, you want to store and travel with your jewelry so that the platinum and gold are separated and will not come in contact with one another.
PART IV
ALTERNATIVE METALS
Palladium is a metal in the platinum group of metals.Of them, it has the lowest melting point and is the least dense.It resembles platinum in its appearance and falls somewhere in between platinum and white gold in term of durability and maintenance. Similarly, palladium bullion is also one of only four metals to have ISO currency codes (XPD and 964).The others are platinum.It is less precious than platinum or gold, but more so than silver.Due to its naturally white color and conducive properties, palladium has been used as a precious metal in the jewelry industry since 1939 as an alternative to platinum and white gold.In fact, when platinum was declared a strategic government resource during World War II, many jewelry bands were made out of palladium or a combination of palladium and white gold.Palladium is less expensive than platinum, but often more than white gold.However, its price is more volatile than most metals. There is a demand from a wide range of global industries (mostly automobile catalytic converters, electronics and fuel cell research) yet its supply comes from only a few mines across the world.Thus, any interruption in supply can have a dramatic effect on prices.
Cobalt is an alloy blend that consists of cobalt and “other substances” to offer a bright white alternative metal. The recipes of cobalt, base metals and”other substances”are not quantified in something such as a “carat” and the other ingredients that make up the alloy are often unknown, and vary greatly per manufacturer.Many people are allergic to cobalt, and it has been known to change skin color, and develop permanent oxidation areas over time.Cobalt is less dense than platinum but harder in terms of durability; however, it can still scratch.Cobalt doesn’t need plating.It fingerprints more noticeably than gold or platinum so it requires more frequent light polishing to look good.Cobalt rings may be removed using a normal ring cutter, unlike tungsten (which is a little scary quite frankly).
Tungsten Carbide First, get a guarantee from the manufacturer that if your ring has NO cobalt in it (so you can get a replacement at little or no charge) if it changes… The rings might look nice at first, but depending on how much you wear it, chemical reactions can (and usually do) occur between the cobalt and the tungsten metals and destroy its appearance.Because of the extreme hardness, tungsten carbide cannot be sized like gold, palladium or platinum rings.So, if you’d like to pass your wedding band down as an heirloom, it has little or no use to its new owner unless it fits perfectly.Similarly, its resale value is trite, especially if you do not have a typical ring size.Gain or lose weight, and you’re buying a whole new ring.Tungsten Carbide rings can only be laser engraved.Stone replacement and repair is not really an option.Tungsten carbide rings are strong and dense; so much, in fact, that you can remove them only with the use of a cutting tool designed specifically for cutting titanium and tungsten (some hospitals aren’t equipped for that).So, if you damage your arm or hand, gain too much weight, or have any type of excessive swelling that prevents normal removal of your ring, you’re in a bit of a bind.(It melts at the highest melting point of all metals if that tells you anything).Tungsten does not gain its extreme hardness until it is combined with a carbon alloy, transferring it into tungsten carbide.However, once that marriage has been made, tungsten carbide is four times harder than titanium, twice as hard as steel and is virtually unscratchable.It maintains its permanent finish and won’t dent or loose its shine very easily.Again, it is an “alternative” metal.It has been widely used for decades in industrial applications such as cutting tools, mining machinery, and rocket engine nozzles.Do you want to wear that on your finger everyday?That’s your call.
Titanium has a silver, grayish color.It is the hardest natural metal, as strong as some steels, but 45% lighter because of its low density.It is lighter than tungsten.It is strong, lustrous, corrosion-resistant and often a good alternative for those with allergies to other metals.However, it does have draw backs.Like tungsten, if you experience a hand or arm injury, excessive swelling, or gain enough weight and that your ring cannot be removed normally, you may have an issue.Titanium can only be cut with a cutting tool designed specifically for cutting titanium and tungsten (some hospitals aren’t equipped for that) and aircraft-grade titanium cannot be cut off.Also, if a great impact takes place on the ring, it will bend; unlike tungsten carbide that will fracture into pieces. So, you could potentially bend the ring on your finger and have a hard time getting it removed.Replacing stones in a titanium band is virtually impossible, and they cannot be prong set.Contrary to popular belief titanium can scratch; it is scratch resistant, but not scratch proof.If you are considering a colored titanium ring, or that with color in the design, know that the color can wear off and it may need to be reapplied.
